Kuroshitsuji Charles Grey Cosplay Tutorial (Spats/Boot Covers)

Okay…so I’m complete crap at updating, but here’s a way overdue blog update/post–a tutorial on how to make a pair of “Victorian” spats (not truly Victorian since I’ve paired mine with a pair of chunky stripper heels x_x and installed a zipper on the side) based off of Charles Grey’s costume design. Here’s a reference photo and a photo of the finished spats.

Also, I would like to warn readers, this tutorial gets kind of confusing because in the middle, because I forgot to take pictures (I get too excited when working on cosplay, so I forget x__x), so there’s a lot of text explanation :< However, if any reader needs extra explanation, please comment and I’ll be more than glad to help walk you through it in better detail.

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So before I did any sewing or drafting I did a quick prelim sketch of where everything was gonna be placed/layers. I was originally going to layer my fabric: Main fabric, interfacing, lining, but the main fabric I bought to make the rest of my suit and pants are so thick/stiff that I cut out the interfacing.

IMG_2814 Okay, to draft a perfect fitting pattern to fit over my leg/foot/shoe, I used a method that a lot of cosplayers use when drafting pattern pieces for Worbla armor, which is to wrap your leg with saran wrap and then take masking tape, tape over the saran wrap and sharpie over where you want your seams to be. I know it sounds crazy and definitely looks ridiculous (see below), but it does get a pretty good fit in a quick and easy way. Fair warning, don’t wear pants that you like while going this, because when I cut myself out of the wrap/tape, I cut a hole into my leggings x_____x

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IMG_2446 …naise. (btw, these are not the appropriate seam lines for Charles Grey’s spats, this is actually a picture of me doing the same method of drafting for my Saber cosplay. For CG, draw a line down the center front, center back and each side).

Okay, after I did that/cut my leg out of the tape/wrap casing. I got 4 separate pieces (Be sure to label them! They all look very similar).

IMG_2733Aiight, niceeee. So after that I transferred the pieces onto flat paper so they would be easier to work with. I also added in a 0.5″ seam allowance on all side in this step.

After that, when I had all four paper pieces, I cut them all out of cheap muslin to do a quick mock up before I started cutting into the nice fabric.

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Eyyy, not looking too bad. But there’s still some cleaning up to do. On this first mockup is when I do all the pinning and adjusting and marking up. (Use a sharpie, go crazy, write/redraw seam lines/adjust whatever you want to make it fit nicely in this step. But yeah, after I was done, I was pretty happy. So I took it all apart.

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And re-transferred the pieces onto paper. This drafting step of transferring it back and forth from paper to muslin to paper can be repeated as many times as possible until you get a fit you like. I think for Madam Red, I drafted her bodice at least 3 times x_x but yeah, up to you who’s making this on how you want it to fit ^^

After this, drafting is complete and I proceeded to cut out the pieces out of main fabric and lining fabric. Oh and between the last step and this step, I somehow decided that my legs are symmetrical, so I would only use two different pattern pieces and cut each out twice to make one four-piece spat because I’m hella lazy. In the end, it worked out pretty well, but I think I should have still stuck with the four distinct pieces I had above to have a better fitting spat, but oh wells…too late for regrets.

So here’s the pattern piece and fabric and lining all cut out, laid/pinned on top of each other.

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My main fabric is this really nice off white twill and my lining is white cotton poplin for those who are curious. But yeah, I just attached them all together BUT, for this project in particular…I did not sew together the outside edge, for sandwiching a black strip of fabric in later.

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This is a picture of the boot cover for my right leg, see how I’ve sewn the main fabric together except for the edge that will be on the outside of my leg/the black sandwich seam line.

In the next step, I installed a zipper (non-invisible) in that middle seam in the picture above (it’s actually a basted seam). Pics of the zip placement (I took this picture a few steps after, so bear with my jumping back and forth)…

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Okay, so after the zipper is installed, I attached the lining (the lining is basically the same thing as the main fabric. Face the two right sides together and sew ALL around (except for where the zipper is, that has to be sewn by hand to the zipper inside)

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Attaching the lining.

Okay, after that’s all said and done, the little cuff at the top of CG’s boot cover needs to be made. This can be probably a million different ways but what I did was to cut out a strip of fabric that can be doubled over and fits nicely/comfortably around the top of the boot cover. So I cut a strip of fabric around 15″ wide and 6″ tall (not including seam allowances), which would be doubled over to make a strip that is 3″ tall and 15″ to wrap around my calf. To get the strips of black I used thin bias tape that I laid down and sewed down.

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After that was done, I handsewed it onto the boot cover itself.

IMG_2793 And for the finishing touches, the flower and buttons:

The buttons I made from this kit I got online. Here’s a larger version of it.

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IMG_2794So I followed the directions and tacked those babies on. And as for the flower, I totally cheated and used hot glue. First I started off by cutting a 1 inch circle out of fabric that would hold all my ribbon pieces together. I cut out three inch strips of velvet ribbon (7/8″ wide) and glued that all down.

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I repeated that 8 times and laid the folded ribbon pieces on top of each other.

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…that’s a really poor picture, but hopefully it helps you with getting an idea of how I laid it out.

Then to finish it all off, I took one of the bigger buttons I made from that other kit and sewed it down the center and tacked that onto the boot cover where I thought it was appropriate.

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Here’s a picture of my stubby legs wearing them. Very swag. Much wauw.

And that’s all folks! Whew, GG now I’m beginning to understand why it takes me so long to update. Writing all of that felt like a marathon. x_____x But yeah, hoped this helped a bit for those who have the same endeavors. Drop me a line if you have questions!

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